Spring/Summer 2012 Collection: Highlights

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

The slideshow above shows you items that can only be purchased in our shop on Golborne Road – so do come and visit us.

Visit our YouTube Channel to see Monique styling the collection in our shop. In four videos, you will see not only items that are available online, on our website, but also pieces that are exclusive to our shop: Glitter cardi (for those special occassions), Cropped Vivi trousers, Lally knitted top, a selection of lovely summer dresses, such as Catherine dress with cute ribbon print, black/white Sun dress, elegant Isabelle, wonderfully 50s Edie, and demure Hannah.

You will not only learn how to put together the perfect look – you will learn to understand the reasoning behind it. Hope you enjoy it and we would love to see you in our shop soon.

Chasing Inspiration 7 – La Chine de Topolina

There is something hugely endearing about vintage shops. Every piece there has its history, and when you buy something, you take it home with you. La Chine de Topolina is a vintage shop in the south of France, and by far our favourite. In fact, the shop is so dainty and cute, it inspired one of Denis Demouge’s drawings.

Our attitude towards vintage clothes has changed dramatically over the years. Widely accepted theory states that clothes produced before 1920 is considered antique, and from 1920 to 1960 – vintage. However, more recently, items produced in 1970-80s are considered vintage as well. We have to thank the late 1990s for increasing awareness and demand for vintage clothing, which was brought on mostly by celebrities adopting the style. Who can forget Julia Roberts in vintage Valentino at Oscars 2001?

Nobody has a claim of doing more for vintage clothes awareness than Dita von Teese, who modelled her whole life on vintage items. The vintage awareness also coincided with the revival of the old art of burlesque, and currently there are many artists performing in the most beautiful vintage pieces. In turn, it inspired revival of rockabilly and swing dancing, and now there are many classes available practically in every town.

Of course, celebrities alone could not be responsible for the wave of vintage revival. The society became much more aware of the environment an sustainability, therefore the culture of reusing, recycling and repairing prevailed over “single use clothing”.

There has also been an increasing interest in environmental sustainability in terms of reusing, recycling and repairing rather than throwing things away.

In terms of fashion, designers are often inspired by the past. For example, our Spring/Summer 2012 collection takes its inspiration from the French Riviera in 50s and Miami beach in 60s. Knowing shops like La Chine de Topolina provides us with “inspiration on tap”, when just spending time there can generate ideas.

Well, weekend is almost upon us, so why don’t you look up your local vintage shop and spend a good couple of hours rummaging through? What kind of inspiration would you get? Let us know on our Facebook page. Of course, if you can get to France, visit La Chine de Topolina (that glove might still be available):

Chasing Inspiration 6 – Our Little Manou

Little Manou joined our meeting at Golborne Road this month and we thought that she definitely qualifies for being inspiring. Manou is our daughter Oona’s dog and she is a bichon/shih  tzu cross. Combining these two breeds has become so popular over the years, that it is now practically a breed in its own right.  Did you know that Shih Tzu is the closest known descendant of the prehistoric Chinese wolf, the Senji?

Shih Tzu literally means Lion Dog, which is rather amusing considering the size of the dog. It makes sense when you realise that the dog was bread to resemble the lion as it is depicted in traditional Chinese art, for example guardian lions.

Shih tzu is often called Xi Shi Quan, in honour of the most beautiful woman of ancient China.

In England, in the 30s, the shih tzu was christened the Chrysanthemum Dog, which is really rather sweet.

The Shih Tzu comes in a range of colours. There are even very rare  so called solid blue Shih Tzu.

Now we established where Manou gets her beauty and her lion heart, what about the bichon part?

The Bichons share ancestry with the Poodles, the Barbet. Bichon as a breed is rather varied and generally named for the region where they originated from – therefore we have Maltese, Bichon Tenerife and Bichon Bolognese.

The Bichons were the court dogs of medieval Europe, especially finding favor in France, Italy and Spain. The French word bichonner, which means to pamper or doll up, derives from the be-ribboned and lavish lifestyles of the Bichon of Henry III of France, who was carried in a little basket wherever the King went.  Actually,  until the French Revolution, all the Kings of France had Bichons.  Bichons also made a regular appearance in paintings. Among the most famous are Titian, Sir Joshua Reynolds and Francisco Goya.

It is Bichon that we have to thank for Manou’s wonderful personality. Bichons generally are very energetic, playful and entertaining, and she is certainly a great example of that!

There are a lot of interesting facts about bichon. For example, centuries ago Spanish sailors going from continent to continent used Bichon to greet people because of their merry, lively temperament? They were perfect as a working Spanish boat dog (not just a pretty face then?) because they did not require a lot of exercise, were non-shedding, and disliked water, so were unlikely to jump overboard.

Small breeds like that often referred to as “toy dogs” – Manou is nothing like that. She is a wonderful companion and a true member of our family with sparkly personality and, of course, a penchant for fashion. And yes, she was invaluable during the meeting.

Chasing Inspiration 5: Goodbye to Winter Blues

Now when we all are looking forward to summer, this picture caught our attention being the epitome of winter, Christmas, snow and frost. Monique is wearing iconic Emmanuelle Khanh sunglasses.

Emmanuelle, the fashion rebel of the 60s, fighting against the strict haute couture, started redefining high fashion. It was the time of change in fashion circles –  Daniel Hechter created a style between comfort and sportswear, Cacharel redesigned its shirts, Michele Rosier began to create a cosmic line of windbreakers and anoraks, Chantal Thomass created her minidresses, Elie and Jacqueline Jacobson created Dorothée Bis, and Sonia Rykiel launched her knitwear line.
Emmanuelle designed beautiful clothes for mass production, modelling and selling it herself. She once collaborated with another model, Christiane Bailly, to designed Emmachristie collection in 1962, which took the fashion world by a storm. She was at the vanguard of the young French ready-to-wear movement, which made her a pioneer of accessible fashion. Her signature style is beautiful femininity, close to the body “droop” silhouette, with a slight retro feel.
She is well known for her original eyewear designs and especially in her innovative use of lizard, snake, ostrich, crocodile, and shark skin on the frames of her handmade “EK”-initialed glasses, and the sunglasses still a very large part of her collections.
In this photo, Monique is also wearing Aran jumper, this is what we think of when we think of winter. The thick cable knits say comfort and long evening by the fireplace. Did you know that this comfy, “household name” style has a number of myths associated with it? Being often called (and sold as) a “fisherman sweater”, it probably has never been used by fishermen of Aran islands, since the original jumpers were made from untreated yarn and would have not been suitable.  Also, the thickness of the original jumper would restrict the movements and probably wouldn’t help either. Nevertheless, the traditional Gansey jumpers (the predecessors of Arans) have been worn by sailors and fishermen.

Since we are talking about legends – sometimes you might hear that each fisherman family would have jumpers with a unique design, so that if he drowned his body could be identified. Morbid. And not true. There is no evidence of a tradition of family patterns, but the jumpers patterns tend to have regional a local feel to them. Besides, most of the fishermen would have their initials knit into the jumper, so there was really no need to identify the pattern. Of course, Aran jumpers made their way into the movie industry, immortalised by Steve McQueen among others.

And now, to complete our goodbye to winter, a nod to a shaggy coat. Making its arrival on a fashion scene in the 70s, the coat has never really left, or stays in a perpetual state of a comeback. It keeps you warm and makes you feel slightly rebellious, what more can we say? But for now, it has to go back to storage, until it is ready to come back. Next winter.

Chantal Ladesou at J & M Davidson

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Chantal Ladesou – a beautiful woman, fabulous actress and unique comedienne. Also – one of Monique’s best friends. Chantal, a faithful follower of J & M Davidson brand, had a photoshoot at our shop with her daughter, both wearing J & M Davidson and it was a lot of fun for everyone. The photoshoot was performed for the current issue of Gala Magazine, and we took a few photos as well. Chantal is an absolute legend in French theatre and cinema. One of the reviews for her show Les Sérénissimes de l’Humour said: “After seeing this show, you will no longer see life in the same way. Surprising, blundering, charming, her life is a series of misunderstandings. You will find your dreams, your love stories passed through the Ladesou filter. I watched the house live and I’ll tell you its life … Two teenagers leaving, and an old man returning. Where to put a husband in the home. Career management but also refrigerator management …. This is more like a war story. Ladesou Chantal serves up a comedy show about theater and its business, behind the scenes of marriage and family adventures. The edgy Ladesou will captivate you, she’s so crazy that she is captivating. She does not just get on stage, she also takes it apart!”

As you can see Chantal was just as funny and captivating on the photoshoot.

Chasing Inspiration 4 – All-Stars

Taken while shooting one of our collection, this photo of Monique wearing All-Stars (well, one of them to be precise) made us think about this iconic brand that survived generations and managed to adapt to every generation. Would you believe that the first pair of these shoes was created in 1908? The catalogue of 1913 stated: “Our company was organized in 1908 fully believing that there was an earnest demand from the retail shoe dealer for a rubber shoe company that would be independent enough not to follow every other company in every thing they do.”  And so they did – for over hundred years. The distinctive diamond pattern sole made its first appearance in mid 1920s and stayed for good. From the very moment when basketball player named Charles H. “Chuck” Taylor walked into Converse complaining of sore feet – and got a job, the brand became a legend for sportsmen. Chuck worked as a salesman and ambassador, promoting the shoes around the United States, and in 1923 his signature was added to the All Star patch. He continued this work until shortly before his death in 1969.

Converse also designed products for servicemen overseas during the World War II – footwear, boots for pilots, parkas and rubber protective suits and ponchos. Throughout the years, the colours were added, various makeovers happened, including the Pro Leather in 1976.

All Stars are strongly associated with the spirit of rebellion, seeing things differently and all things rock & roll. It’s interesting how the shoe made the transition from the world of sports into fashion and managed to retain their huge following in both. Every generation claims All Stars as their own, and rightfully so – Converse reinvents itself continuously while staying true to their values. The brand even took their vive la difference further recently – by allowing you to create your own pair of all stars online! Your very own special customised edition. Talking of special editions – there were so many throughout the years, just to mention a few: DC Comics, The Ramones, AC/DC, Sailor Jerry, Metallica, The Clash, Dr Seuss, Grateful Dead, Ozzy Osbourne, Jimi Hendrix, Drew Brophy, Nirvana, Gorillaz…. There are a couple of pictures of special editions below, feast your eyes on these collectors items.

 

Chasing Inspiration 3: Trench Coats and Ballerinas

This picture made us think of the interesting story of the trench coat – a fashion item that refused to go  out of fashion for many years.

The very first trench coat was designed as a lighter coat for British and French soldiers in the First World War. Both Burberry and Aquascutum claim the invention of the trench coat, however the design of the trench coat was submitted to the United Kingdom War Office in 1901 by Thomas Burberry.

During the First World War, the trench coat acquired shoulder straps – for the attachment of epaulettes, and D-rings – for map cases and swords. You may have heard the story that the D-ring was created for the attachment of hand grenades, but this is not true, although adds some drama to the trench coat. During this war, the trench coat also acquired its name, after the trenches in the front line. The coats were comfortable and versatile to wear, therefore war veterans continued to wear them, and eventually trench coat became a fashion item for men and women.

Of course, we have to mention the ultimate ambassador for the trench coat – Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca – showing that the trench coats continued to be popular during the World War II.

Other iconic figures that immortalised trench coats include Dick Tracy, Inspector Clouseau, the Phantom. And of course, who can forget Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s?

In the late 80s and 90s the trench coats established a new trend, gaining popularity in heavy metal and goth crowds. Versatility of this garment contributed to its adoption in comics, books and films. The trench coat could add an air of elegance to one character (back to Casablanca!) or evil eeriness – Freddy Krueger. But it was a film in the 90s that really provided trench coat with an opportunity to shine – the Matrix and its sequels.

In our photo, Monique teams up the trench coat with our ballerina shoes. Do you know that in medieval times, both men and women wore similar type of shoe, called pompes? The story of ballet pumps going in and out of fashion is rather dramatic. They were once forgotten completely, following Catherine di Medici request to add a couple of inches to her shoes – thus, inventing the heel, which was promptly adopted by all. Marie Antoinnette even worn heels to her execution – where she slipped and stepped on the foot of the executioner –  “Monsieur, je vous demande pardon. Je ne l’ai pas fait exprès” were her last words…

Since then, the size of the heel varied, but the ballerinas did not make a proper comeback until Audrey Hepburn paired them off with skinny jeans in several films of the 50s.

 

For the last 10 years, ballerina shoes took over the world, the variety of designs and styles are overwhelming. Inspired by the history and ballet, we launched our collection of ballerina shoes which continues this season.

Chasing Inspiration 2: Tian Tan Big Buddha

Looking at the Lantau Island from afar, especially on a foggy morning, evokes deep feeling of serenity and calm. Having taken 12 years to plan and build,  the statue was completed on December 29th,  1993, the day of the enlightenment of Gautama Buddha, the founder of the Buddhist religion. Unusually, the statue faces north, whereas all the other big Buddhas face south. In 1999 Hong Kong post office issued a stamp depicting the Tian Tan Buddha.

The statue symbolises the stability of Hong Kong, prosperity of China and peace on earth.

In 1973, the monks of Po Lin Monastery, the Venerable Chi Wai and the Venerable Yuen Wai, having visited Buddha statue of Kamakura in Japan

and a statue in Zhanghua, Taiwan,

vowed to build a big Buddha statue in Hong Kong – believing the spirit of tranquillity and peace exuded by the Budda’s image would be a source of spiritual comfort for people. Their later visit to Tian Tan (altar of Heaven) in Beijing prompted them to call the statue Tian Tan Big Buddha Statue.

The construction of the statue is a work of art in itself,  a result of thousands of drawings and meticulous planning, which prompted the statue to be elected as the fourth of the 10 Engineering Wonders in Hong Kong in 2000. This is the contemporary significance of this statue – it is inspired by tradition and spirituality and executed using the advances of modern science and technology. Perfect harmony of old and new, the statue is breathtaking.

In our picture,  Monique is wearing one of our orange knits and carries  Vivi bag in orange, very similar in colour to saffron robes of Buddhist monks, which prompted us to think about the significance and production of the saffron robes, firmly associated with Buddhism.

If you ever wondered about the origins of the bright colours of Buddhist monks, here is some insight. The Buddha taught the first monks and nuns to make their robes of “pure” cloth. Pure in this context meant discarded, unwanted by anyone else. Monks would scavenge cloth from the streets, wash it and dyed by boiling with various available herbs and plants bark, flowers, leaves or spices, such as turmeric and saffron. So it is the search for simplicity, and using the cheapest options available at the time, that lead to creation of one of the most well-known colour association.

Ngong Ping, the village that hosts Po Lin Monastery and the Buddha, is an interesting mix of purely tourist attractions, such as Disneylandesque plastic Tree of Buddha, and the genuine attractions, such as the monastery itself and Wisdom Walk. Next to the temple, you can purchase the food cooked for and by monks in the monastery, if you do not feel like visiting one of the restaurants – it is an interesting experience.

And finally, although you can get to the Big Buddha by bus or by a cable car, you can also aim for an adventure and walk to the statue. You can do that by following a path consisting of wooden staircases and very steep hills – this experience is not for faint hearted!

Chasing Inspiration 1: Bondi Beach

 

This picture of Bondi Beach in 1995 begins our blog about various places that inspired us throughout the years. Wonderfully airy and spacious, the beach looks deserted, apart from us and the multitude of seagulls. Or, to be precise: us, seagulls and one of our bags.

We always found fascinating how the places change over the years, and how the changes can be traced through fashion. Looking at the history of such iconic beach, it’s the evolution of the swimming costumes that really does tell the story. This is an example of the swimwear on Bondi Beach in the early days:

Bondi Beach authorities maintained the decency of swimming costumes between 1935 and 1961 by having an ordinance in place – beach inspectors enforced the law by measuring the dimensions of swimwear and ordering offenders off the beach. Of course, being designated as fashion police, the inspectors sported their own uniform; this is what they looked like in the 30s:

And this is a beach inspector introducing the essential item for Australian travel – the suntan lotion:

 

In 1961 the rule has been replaced with just one requirement – that bathers will be “clad in a proper and adequate bathing costume”. By 1980s, the popularity of topless bathing got rid of that rule too.

This is what the Bondi Beach looks like now – with a lot of developments over the last 15 years, new hotels and restaurants it’s a far cry from a quiet endless beach that is in our first picture.

Being one of the most iconic representations of Australia, Bondi Beach continues to inspire artists, designers and photographers. One of the most interesting projects was George Caddy’s – a photographer who documented Bondi beach in the 1930s where ‘Beachobatics’ was big (that is acrobatics on the beach, involving building complicated human pyramids). Several art galleries since found their homes at  Bondi Beach and the annual Sculpture by the Sea exhibition allows you to enjoy art alfresco. It is also a very popular location for fashion photoshoots. Ever-changing landscape of Bondi Beach is a story of a place that is continuously evolving, responding to changes in fashion and attitudes, but retaining its essence at the same time. And that is why we named it as one of our inspiration sources – incorporating modern trends into timelessly classic concepts is one of the cornerstones of our design philosophy.

 

Chasing Inspirations: 2012 Blog Project

Today we are publishing our first blog in the series Chasing Inspirations – 2012 project. We have decided to look back on our extensive travels and post pictures of places and things that inspired us most. We are planning to post regularly, so please check this page often.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.